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Permanent link (DOI): https://doi.org/10.7939/R3WC94

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Identification and characterization of rayon in women's dresses of the 1920s and 1930s Open Access

Descriptions

Other title
Subject/Keyword
refractive index
acetate
conservation
microscopy
fibre identification
condition survey
rayon
Type of item
Thesis
Degree grantor
University of Alberta
Author or creator
Lewarne, Alicia Clare
Supervisor and department
Lemire, Beverly (History and Classics/Human Ecology)
Karsten, Irene F. (Human Ecology)
Examining committee member and department
Lemire, Beverly (History and Classics/Human Ecology)
McTavish, Lianne (Art and Design)
Karsten, Irene F. (Human Ecology)
Department
Department of Human Ecology
Specialization

Date accepted
2009-08-13T19:09:33Z
Graduation date
2009-11
Degree
Master of Science in Textiles and Clothing
Degree level
Master's
Abstract
The use of rayon in 1920s and 1930s garments confronts conservators with new challenges: definitive fibre identification involves more than basic microscopy and treatment can be difficult with little available research on early rayon and its conservation. Rayon is expected to degrade similarly to other cellulosic fibres; however, since it is a regenerated fibre, rayon is at risk of doing so at a faster rate. The purpose of this research was to develop and test a protocol for the identification of viscose and cuprammonium rayon and to determine whether early rayon dresses have condition issues at this time. Polarizing microscopy, hot-stage microscopy, acetone solubility and relative fibre refractive index were explored as fibre identification techniques, resulting in the development of a rayon identification scheme. 1920s and 1930s rayon dresses were surveyed for condition and it was determined that dresses in this sample have limited condition issues at this time.
Language
English
DOI
doi:10.7939/R3WC94
Rights
License granted by Alicia Clare Lewarne (lewarne@ualberta.ca) on 2009-08-04T16:44:46Z (GMT): Permission is hereby granted to the University of Alberta Libraries to reproduce single copies of this thesis and to lend or sell such copies for private, scholarly or scientific research purposes only. Where the thesis is converted to, or otherwise made available in digital form, the University of Alberta will advise potential users of the thesis of the above terms. The author reserves all other publication and other rights in association with the copyright in the thesis, and except as herein provided, neither the thesis nor any substantial portion thereof may be printed or otherwise reproduced in any material form whatsoever without the author's prior written permission.
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File title: Lewarne Chapters 1-3 FINAL
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